The topic of the day is water. Yes, water in all possible forms and shapes.
The weather forecast is not good at all, so I sensibly (do not confuse it with happily) decide not to climb Vignemale. Instead of spending tonight in Vallée de Gaube I will go straight to Cauterets and then Lourdes for Pentecost. It’s another change of plan but if I’m going to stay in the valley overnight and then walk in the rain tomorrow anyway, I might as well go to Lourdes tonight and sing with the choir again in the morning. Though, let’s get it all in order.
I’m not climbing Vignemale but going straight to Refuge des Oulettes de Gaube (2151m). A morning view from de Bayssellance is very different from the one yesterday afternoon. Basically, I walk out the door and almost walk into a cloud… It is windy which isn’t very pleasant but it helps as it keeps the clouds moving, giving me a chance to see something – a path for instance. Almost immediately after I leave the refuge a drizzle starts. Perhaps, I should have put a big black bag over my backpack straight away but never mind.
A path to Hourquette d’Ossoue is pretty much covered in snow but there is no real need for crampons. I know the conditions from yesterday, so I don’t bother.
On the other side of the pass, there is even more snow. I can see some old footprints, so I follow them.
The rain stopped and the wind too which makes walking much more pleasant. After a few minutes, I turn around to see how far I walked. It’s astonishing that what looked so beautiful, majestic and blissful yesterday, today is unwelcoming, ominous and threatening… In the mountains, it can be a matter of minutes not hours but my point isn’t the time. I’m talking about the change itself.
Choosing which footprints to follow is not easy. I need to check constantly whether there are any rock signposts at the end of those footprints. I know where the refuge is but in the mountains (like in life!) there is nothing such as a ‘straight’ path and winter way marking doesn’t seem to exist in the Pyrenees. There is no drama or it isn’t overly tiring but it requires quite a lot of attention and focus. I guess, that I don’t give enough of my attention and energy to look for life waymarkers… perhaps it is a high time to do something about it… I should have a little emoji to mark a ‘pause for thought’ in each post 🤣 I might look for one 😄
As I pass most of the snow I reach a usual rocky path which zigzags down. At the beginning of this post, I mentioned water. I had rain and snow already and now I have a stream that chooses to run exactly on my path! Not across, just snakes down exactly the same way I’m going. It could be a bit more considerate if you ask me. Not being asked though, I choose to walk beside that water which seems to be everywhere. I can cope with this for a while. Will my boots?
Right, now look at this picture ☝️ my path there is nice and clear but – a very big ‘but’ – this naughty stream decided to take it over completely. There is no chance that I can cross it dry foot. If I stay on the path, of course.
I go a bit below where this stream is still covered in snow which I use as a bridge. This photo actually doesn’t show all the truth because from this side it looks like I could walk across just below or above the path – I could not!
From that point, it doesn’t take long to get to the refuge. I stop there for a bowl (yes, they do bowls rather than mugs!!!) of hot chocolate and a quick charge of my phone. This is my first access to electricity since I left Lourdes!
Stupidly, I didn’t take any pictures inside as the phone was charging but I had a good look around. Apart from some lovely recent and historical photos of the mountains around, there is a piano (!!!) and most importantly a guitar! If I only knew that, I would have walked down here yesterday evening and spent time playing my never forgotten mountain music… I guess, only my Polish friends who walked the mountains with me can understand the pain…
After about half an hour (just about the time for another shower to stop) I put all the gear together and start walking down to Lac de Gaube. I hoped to see Vignemale again before leaving but it’s still covered in heavy clouds. After about an hour of walking I can see a family of four walking up and I want to ask them to take a picture of me (no playing with tripods in this conditions – it’s been raining again) but before I even open my mouth a little boy (must have been a couple of years older than Filip) asks ‘can you speak in English language?’ Relief on his face makes me smile. They want to know how far it is to the refuge. Apart from the father they are not dressed too well for a mountain trip let alone a mountain trip in the rain. He wants to go on Vignemale but I explain the conditions between the two refuges and on Vignemale itself. He thought of going by himself and walking down to the dam where I stayed on Thursday night. In retrospection – I don’t think that he could make it by the end of the day. Only Vignemale takes at least 5 hours from Refuge des Oulettes de Gaube in good conditions. I’m sure that in the refuge they will tell him not to go… Though, I know the feeling of wanting to go… We also have a similar feeling about the quality of waymarking. The family turns out to be Serbian and they say that in their country all the trails are well marked on the trees and rocks not just with piles of stones. It sounds like the system we have in our mountains in Poland. Will my next destination be Serbia? Who knows?
By the time I get to the lake, I pass a couple of mountaineering groups walking up. They are geared up for rock climbing – not the best weekend for that.
It stops raining eventually and I can see a bit of those beautiful waterfalls.
I have a quick look at Cabane du Pinet (1783m). Very simple like most of them but with plenty of wood and a big fireplace.
When I get to Pont d’Espagne, the sun is shining. I take a few pics (now I really miss my camera, s7 is fantastic but has its limitations) and start walking down to Cauterets.
The sign says 1 hour but all the timing here is given for runners, I suppose or people who have no appreciation for the beauty of nature. I stop every now and again to watch the waterfalls, take some photos and videos.
I have more than plenty of time to catch the last bus to Lourdes. About 3km away from Cauterets it starts to rain again, so I put my jacket back on not thinking much about it. The rain was on and off all day, so it is nothing to contemplate or complain about. I just keep going. Though, 10 minutes later the heavens open and a great thunderstorm starts. I like thunderstorms (in fact I love them!) and I don’t think much, just keep walking but the rain is so heavy that by the time I get to the village, I’m absolutely soaked. Everything but the Goretex is wet in and outside. I planned to get a couple of souvenirs before catching the bus but I’m so wet that I don’t dare to walk to any shops. I even wonder if a bus driver will let me get on in a state I’m in. I’ve got so much water in my boots that I can hear it splashing inside. Perhaps, it’s going to be the end of their life. At the end of the day they are twelve years old (I bought them when I arrived in Wales in May 2005!), walked quite a few mountains and served well on many occasions.
Before the bus arrives I dry a little bit or at least look dryer but by now I start feeling cold.
By 8 p.m. I’m in my hotel room in Lourdes. Everything is very simple and there is quite a bit of noise in the corridor (after a week in silent mountains every noise seems to be even louder) but knowing that I stay the warmth tonight is good enough.
I think that every single person living in a so-called civilised world should go to the wilderness every now and again, and experience the lack of basic comforts like roof above your head, a choice of food to eat, water to drink, hot shower (or any shower for that matter!) just to realise how lucky and blessed we are having all these things in our daily life. Hot shower is a luxury! I really mean it. If you don’t believe, go wild camping for a week.
Mountains of Life 