The Pyrenees Day 1: Ibon de Brazato

I booked another night at Casa de Piedra and decided to warm up without the big backpack.

The morning was pretty wet and all day was going to be like that, but there were plenty of people geared up for some kind of sports event. I was studying the map as I intended to go out anyway, but the curiosity took the better of me and I asked a couple next to me what’s going on. She told me that they had a mountain marathon! Three different options, in fact: half-marathon, marathon and a relay marathon 🤔 and people call me mad! I might start treating that as an insult 😂

Just after 10 o’clock it stopped raining, so I packed my map and waterproofs and ventured out. It started to clear up a bit. At some point, I heard the helicopter. I looked around. It was definitely a rescue helicopter hovering over the mountains on the other side of the valley. It actually landed on the pass, but soon took off and hovered again over those slopes. I don’t know what happened, but I took some pictures of the helicopter.

It’s a good reminder of a rescue for me. It really made me think of this picture…

Soon, the sun was out and the beautiful views emerged – different with each step up.

When I got to the lake, it was glorious. Actually, it was so hot and clear that I knew that I’d sunburn by the time I got back to the refuge. There was an older French couple changing into shorts. I asked the lady if I could ‘borrow’ some sun cream. I’m used to sharing things on the trial if there is a need, but she didn’t look pleased. With hesitation, she offered me some. I was very grateful because my arms would hurt otherwise.

I walked across the dam and found a path down to the smaller lake that looked gorgeously green.

I stopped there for a while, admiring those incredible colours. When I got back to Panticosa, I popped into the hotel to see Miriam and Mario. She wasn’t working, but it turned out that he worked in SPA. Without thinking much, I booked that last session. I am not a beach person, but soaking in a hot outdoor pool (53°C) with a mountain view was definitely the right thing to do.

On the mountain the Lord will provide

The Pyrenees Day 0: Can I still do it?

It’s not quite day one as I haven’t done any hiking today, but it gives some important background to the whole trip.

For various reasons, this past year felt a lot like a dragging myself through the valley of darkness. Recently, I’ve been so exhausted that for once, I doubted the wisdom of this kind of holiday. However, the flights were booked and I decided to go anyway.

I flew to Bilbao and spent the first night in the albergue on the French Camino in Pamplona. I took my pilgrim’s credential – once a pilgrim, always a pilgrim. This brought back some nice memories from ten years ago – almost to the day.

This morning, I found a cafe and over a cup of strong coffee, I finally decided where in the Pyrenees I was going to start. I phoned the refuge and booked a place for tonight. I was rather pleased with that as this trip started to finally take some shape. That joy didn’t last long. I soon found out that there was only one bus a day from Pamplona to Jaca and then to Panticosa – leaving at 3:30 in the afternoon which really was a waste of time. I was awfully annoyed with myself about not checking it beforehand to eventually realise that it wouldn’t have made any difference. I was getting more and more tired and frustrated. It was hot and I dehydrated myself which didn’t help, but only saw it later. The bus to Panticosa wasn’t going to get me to the refuge Casa de Piedra, even though it’s accessible by road. I was looking at the map and I’d have to walk the last 4 miles on the road or take a taxi. While I wasn’t keen on walking on asphalt with all the gear (more about this in a moment), I don’t take taxis in the mountains! It was so unthinkable that I literally cried. I again questioned whether I can do this kind of holiday anymore and wondered if I’d come back in a worse condition than I left. That last bit was equally unthinkable. I mean wasting the holiday.

The gear… I’ve been hiking all my life and I have no idea how on earth I could pack myself like I did!!! My backpack is far too heavy, but I can’t think of anything that I could leave behind. I really don’t know what I was thinking of while packing. Actually, if I wanted to be fair to myself, it wasn’t completely thoughless packing. I had in mind my trip from 2017 when I didn’t stay in mountain huts which changes the way you pack. Though what really had an impact on my packing was a recent reflection on things that I ‘carry’ in my life. One question that I need to answer during this trip is: How am I going to repack my life’s backpack?

Anyway, as I do, I decided to get on with it all and it was going to be a taxi. I would have excused myself anyway as soon as I saw that road!

I got on that bus and relaxed a bit. As we were getting closer to the Pyrenees, there was also more peace. During the last hour from Jaca to Panticosa, I started feeling that it all would be well.

Seeing these views from the bus was enough to bring me peace and energy.

When I got off in Panticosa, I started looking for a taxi. There were phone numbers at the bus stop, but I really don’t like phoning people. There was a woman talking on the phone, so I waited until she finished and asked her. At that moment, a car arrived and she told her husband that I needed to go to Casa de Piedra. He gave me a huge welcoming hug and said that, of course, they would take me there. It turned out that they were from Venezuela and worked in one of the hotels next to the refuge. As it happens, they asked my name, where I was from etc. When I said that I lived in Exeter, he only exclaimed loud ‘no’. Imagine that! Nearly fifty years ago, he was sent to Exeter for an English course to polish his English. He asked if I knew a place called Heavitree. I laughed in reply – that’s where my parish church is and where I work, I said.

Mario and Miriam were my life savers. They told me to ask at the hotel’s reception if I wanted to see them. Mario said that I was a fighter and that I’d be OK even with my backpack. How has he come to this conclusion 🤔? There is some truth in it!

I got to Casa de Piedra with uplifted spirit, left my stuff and went to walk around to stretch my legs and enjoy the views.

I agreed for a brief coaching session that evening. We were going to play it by ear as I didn’t know where I would be, but both: my coach and I thought that it would be great to connect while I’m in the mountains. I was laughing so much when we were on Zoom. I could feel how different I looked in comparison to this morning. There was a massive thunderstorm soon after we started and I had to run back, but I love thunderstorms and I laughed even more. I watched that thunderstorm and then everything around in such amazement. For some reason, it makes me think of Anne when she first arrived and was exploring the Green Gables. I must have fallen asleep with a huge smile on my face.

On the mountain the Lord will provide…