I get up at about 7 a.m. and it is a beautiful morning. I have a quick breakfast, pack things away and set off. I have to chat with St Christopher and St Medard and just pray for another good day. The Cirque de Troumouse looks very pretty in the soft morning sunlight.
It doesn’t take long to get to Lacs des Aires.
I soon get to Cabane de Virgin.
I leave my backpack here for a while and walk up to see a whole panorama of the cirque from a little top.
I don’t enjoy the way down. I either need to go on a road or on a steep and full of loose rocks path. Luckily, it doesn’t take very long. I have a bite when I get to the Auberge de Maillet (still closed this time a year) and find a path that will take me to the Barrage des Gloriettes. It is very warm at that stage, so I put sun cream on to protect my already painful arms.
Just before I get to the dam it starts raining. Initially, it’s not too bad. I had to walk on those loose rocks again as the path disappears somewhere.
When I reach the dam – a very civilised thing in the wilderness… – the rain is pretty heavy. I walk for another hour before I get to Cabane d’Esataube and I’m pretty wet. This cabana has two rooms and is quite well equipped. I put some dry clothes on and set the fire in the ‘kitchen’ to dry my backpack and everything that got wet.
In the meantime, I find huge black bags in the kitchen cupboard and I’m very happy about it. It will keep my backpack dry for the rest of this trip.
It is raining all evening but it doesn’t surprise me. It’s Tuesday and when I checked the forecast for Monte Perdido it was going to be the worst day with snowfall and a possible thunderstorm, so the rain in the valley is quite expected. It should clear up by the morning.
I really didn’t know what to do today. The forecast for the mountains isn’t great but I have to take a risk and hope that St Christopher and St Medard will sort something out. I decided to catch an early bus to Luz Saint-Saveur and try to get a lift to Gedré. I could walk to Gedré but that would be a waste of time and energy and it definitely wasn’t my plan. I wait for a while by a small carpark and start walking as no-one stops. Eventually, a Dutch couple takes me in their campervan. Even the sun is shining when they drop me off in Gedré. I start walking and enjoying the views.
When I get to Heus where I planned to have my lunch, the rain starts. Very gentle at first and then much heavier, so take out my waterproof jacket and the cover for the backpack which to my horror turns out to be too small!!! I get wet but it stops raining fairly soon and the sun comes out again. It has been such a lovely day, apart from that shower, that I even manage to burn my arms – what a surprise. Perhaps, I will never learn anything in this regard. Anyhow, by the time I got to Cabane de Aires, everything dries on me.
That last bit after the shower is the best part of today’s walk. The path snakes up revealing more and more of the mountains behind me. The sun is shining and I find cabane des Aires (2132m) without any trouble.
I unload the bag and get the food and cooking stove ready. Before I cook I go to have a ‘shower’ in a nearby stream. It’s freezing but I’m madly brave or daft and have a quick wash…
I can’t remember when last time I cooked anything on the stove like this (perhaps, about fifteen years ago). It brings good memories and sitting in this tiny hut in the light of a couple of candles is almost romantic. Almost… Like my brother used to say: ‘almost’ makes a difference 😉
After writing a few words I wrap up warm (as warm as I can) and happily and peacefully go to sleep. I’m surprised how safe I feel here on my own right in the middle of nowhere.
At the beginning of this year, it didn’t even cross my mind that I would be in Lourdes. To be fair, many things that I’m doing this year didn’t cross my mind.
Here I am then – a quick stop on the way to the Pyrenees… I have a drink with Isabelle and collect my crampons and hiking poles, and have a paella – I didn’t eat anything since breakfast.
Sunday starts quite early (considering late night last night and a few before). I have to be in the underground basilica for 8 a.m. sharp to be able to sing with the choir. Dear me, what an experience! One thing, I guess, is that I miss singing in a choir in general but the conductor is great and I enjoy it so much (apart from a moment of not singing related disaster which I’m not going to talk about). The Mass itself is a profound experience. I must admit that even though there is a huge number of people, it doesn’t feel like a mass event which I don’t like very much. Of course, being with choir gives a fantastic overview of the whole basilica which, perhaps you don’t get from elsewhere.
I check out a bus connection to Gedré and Gavarnie but there is basically no connection before the 10th of June. I will have to think about what to do. Meanwhile, I go to the grotto, light a couple of candles for many people and in many intentions. It is very hot and as I didn’t sleep a lot recently, so I have a siesta.
The torchlight procession is led by The Society of Our Lady of Lourdes, so I meet with Isabelle again and see a few other familiar faces. The procession itself… I don’t really know what I think…
Every time I’m in the mountains I wonder at least once why on earth I do it (About page answers this quite well).
On this climb Michal and I fell on our knees quite a few times – the last time in awe seeing warm sunrays on those mountain tops. I said to him that if that was my last view during that trip (or my very last view!), I’d be satisfied 😀
After my pretty traumatic experience at Clip’n Climb, I managed to persuade Filip to go and have a go on what he calls ‘proper’ climbing wall.
I knew that a toprope climbing with another human being would be mentally more pleasant than auto-belay, so our taster session was very enjoyable (up to a point but hang on a moment).
For those who have no foggiest idea what I’m talking about – in auto-belay a flat rope winds up automatically when you climb up and when you jump off it slowly unwinds to take you back down like in this video:
By the way, do you see what I meant in my previous post? It just looks so easy!
In ordinary toprope climbing, you have a person on the ground who pulls the rope while climbing up and loosens it when you ‘walk’ back down on the wall. All the difference that matters to me is that you don’t have to jump.
Again, I enjoyed myself very much. During our visit in Clip’n Climb, I tamed the idea of letting go the wall, so my mind was pretty relaxed but… the last walls we did (one each) we had to do with auto-belay. Those are the highest walls in the centre. I focused on climbing because they were more difficult. I can’t remember what grade but definitely more difficult and my body was tired. During our visit to Clip’n Climb, I tamed the idea of letting go of the wall, so my mind was pretty relaxed. I loved climbing up and I thought that it all would be fine. I was sure that I could do it. I was very sure that even though I didn’t like it could do it. Ha! What a surprise! As soon as I got to the top I thought – I don’t think so! I mean, I was prepared to go down the same way I came up. A thought of making myself an idiot – in front of adults not a bunch of kids! – didn’t make any difference this time. Our instructor was shouting to me to just let go of the wall! Yeah, right! ‘Just!’ ‘Let go your right hand’ he tried again. Hanging 17m above the ground I started reconsidering again if my climbing was such a good idea. I was paralised. I did let go very soon but it rather wasn’t my decision. My body (my arms to be precise) decided that it was enough for today. As soon as I fell off I was fine again.
Perhaps this post should be titled ‘Overconfidence’… I bet that in a spiritual language it is simply called pride. No place for this in the mountains or on the climbing wall, unless you like troubles… I’d love to say that the lesson learnt but only life will show. I love it anyway 😀
I always wanted to climb. All my life. I love hiking but climbing was one of my big dreams. I don’t know why. It might just be an effect of climbing being a sort of forbidden fruit. For a long time I wasn’t even allowed to try because it was too dangerous. For years my dear dad didn’t let me have a go. We didn’t have indoor climbing walls in those days either, so I couldn’t test myself. When, at least in theory, I could decide for myself, then there was either an issue with money (students tend not to have much – if any) or other people were stopping me in various ways. There is no point in contemplating this now. The important thing is that I wanted to climb. Since January I suddenly started planning some things that I always wanted to do and which somehow became accessible or I realised that they were accessible. I’ve booked myself on winter trekking course (I will leave this subject for another occasion) and decided to do climbing course after my birthday. It is only February and my birthday is at the end of September, so you can imagine I sort of can’t wait. It is also half-term and I thought that it would be a good idea to spend some quality time with Filip and do something that we both would enjoy. He’s been going to Clip’n Climb since he was five, so guess what? I booked us both for an hour of fun (or so I thought!). As soon as I paid, I had a funny feeling that it wouldn’t be like I thought. I watched Filip and other children many times and it seemed so easy: you climb up, press the button, jump off and you’re back on the floor ready for another wall. Well, now my gut instinct was telling me that I’m wrong but wasn’t too sure where I was wrong.
We went there this morning, went through all the safety talks and soon after we were clipped and ready to climb. Filip on one wall and I right next to him. Climbing up was fine. I suddenly remembered about the existence of some muscles in my body but that was OK. A few stretches but everything was doable. We both got to the top and pressed the buttons and that was it. I realised that I wasn’t going to ‘jump’ off. ‘Oh, just let go the wall, mum. It’s easy!’ – my very reassuring son was shouting to me. I watched it over and over again when I came with him in the past. I looked around and I saw a bunch of little kids going up and jumping off. I thought to myself – out loud, in fact – ‘I’m just not going to do it! Simply no way!’ Then I had another look around and another thought that perhaps I’m not going to make myself an idiot. I can make myself look stupid for a good cause but not like this! Clearly this worked! As soon as I let go the wall, I was fine. Just that one moment of letting go was absolutely horrific. When I got back down I debated with myself for a moment whether it was the first and the last time in my career. Of course, I wouldn’t have been myself if I had given up… I did climb quite a few other walls and each time it was a bit easier to ‘jump’. Just don’t confuse easier with more comfortable…
If anyone is up for a discussion about stepping out of our comfort zones, I can tell you a lot. I’m not afraid of heights. I can look down without a fear that my head will be spinning in a moment, so there must be something different. I don’t have to think much about it. I know exactly what it is. It just mirrors some key things in my life (and I dare to say life of many other people): holding onto things (or sometimes people), trust or rather lack of it and fear of letting go. It can’t be more obvious. While I’m writing this I have a sense that all the activities I’m planning for this year will be more than just letting some dreams come true. You can hear me saying all the time that the mountains teach me about God and my relationship with Him or that I go on mountain retreats. It’s true, they do. It’s exactly the same with climbing, even if I start indoors with kids. It’s so much easier to keep holding onto this wall, even though it’s uncomfortable. I know that I’m wearing harness and I’m clipped to the rope – basically I’m safe. I’m wearing life harness and I’m clipped to God’s caring hands – the safest place in the world – and it is so hard to trust that His rope will safely take me wherever I need to land. It’s so difficult to let go that wall – which is either just a temporary or false safety, not to mention comfort (mental if any). It’s all about surrender and giving up control. I do not like it… I’d rather keep the steering wheel for myself or like in this case just hold onto this wall…
I spent an hour climbing and just practising ‘letting go’. I can’t say that I got to the point that I enjoyed that ‘jumping’ but time after time, wall after wall it was l easier. Each time there was less thinking, less checking out and more just letting go.
It never crossed my mind that I would have a problem with such a simple thing. I have a very strange and strong feeling that God is preparing me for some leap of faith… Dare I wonder what He’s got in mind?
I’m sure it won’t be my last visit there. Maybe I should start practising on regular basis… Just so you don’t think that it’s all made up 😀
Perhaps, I should have ‘Let it go’ from Frozen playing in a background…
I leave my backpack here for a while and walk up to see a whole panorama of the cirque from a little top. 
I don’t enjoy the way down. I either need to go on a road or on a steep and full of loose rocks path. Luckily, it doesn’t take very long. I have a bite when I get to the Auberge de Maillet (still closed this time a year) and find a path that will take me to the Barrage des Gloriettes. It is very warm at that stage, so I put sun cream on to protect my already painful arms.
This cabana has two rooms and is quite well equipped. I put some dry clothes on and set the fire in the ‘kitchen’ to dry my backpack and everything that got wet. 
