Neither the weather forecast for today or for my feeling wasn’t good. Again it was supposed to rain most of the day. I couldn’t fall asleep last night and woke up about four in the morning feeling nauseous. This didn’t bode well. I thought that maybe after breakfast I’d feel better. I did but not significantly. I put the waterproofs over my shorts and went out anyway, but took it really easy. I wanted to go towards Refugio de Respumoso. Initially it wasn’t too bad, but when I reached the first stream crossing from yesterday (it was so much easier to cross today) I started feeling both my knees. The good news was that it brightened up and got really warm, so I took off the over-trousers, rubbed in some Voltarol and sun-cream. As the path started going up and I began to slow down. All those magnificent views kept me going. In fact, they were simply awe-inspiring.

When I get to the first Azule the colours are just stunning! They called those lakes ‘blues’, but they are really green. I guess it’s one of those never ending arguments about what’s blue and what’s green. Whatever it is, it’s stunning! I get to the upper lake with the speed of a snail. It’s not an exaggeration. My knees are killing me. I watch some crazy people diving in. This makes me wonder. If I stand in that water for a few minutes, it would be like a cold compress and should ease the pain. I find a nice rock to sit down and take my boots off. ‘Ouch’ is not the expression that I used when I dipped my foot in. I learned to swim in mountain rivers and streams, but this lake is ice-cold! I keep forgetting how high I am. The upper Azules at over 2400 m. There was no chance to stand in this water. My feet were just too sensitive. I tried to dip in just one knee at a time and this seemed to work. At least, it brought some temporary pain relief.

I kept wondering if I should go any further. The path climbed up steadily, but wasn’t awfully steep and I was tempted. I knew though, that I would have to walk down again and wasn’t looking forward to that with my knees as they were.

Now, this view made me feel a bit better about everything, but especially about my packing. It could always be worse…

I’m glad that I decided to come back. It was hard enough. To be perfectly honest, I literally just made it. I’m not sure if I could walk for another 10 minutes without collapsing. When I got to the refuge, I went straight to bed and set the alarm for six. I thought that if I slept for more than two hours I wouldn’t sleep at night. I fell asleep instantly. I was planning to do some writing, but I really wasn’t in place to do anything apart from getting something quick to eat. Something struck me and I decided to have tea and then only boiled water. I’m not sure why. Literally, a gut instinct. An early night was in order.

On the mountain the Lord will provide

The weather forecast was bad: rain all morning and thunderstorm from about midday. It’s not far to de Bachimaña and I hoped to get there before the thunderstorms. I was on my way at 9 o’clock. At the start of the path, I bumped into Synna and Kristin, Norwegian hikers who I saw on the bus to Panticosa, but they got off before me.

It actually stopped raining and I took off my coat. There were a few drops later, but nothing like the forecast said. When I got to de Bachimaña, after a quick coffee, I managed to watch the Mass. There is a church in Panticosa, but it’s nothing but a building 😞

After I checked in the sky was clear and the walk around the big lake was in order. The views are stunning!

At some point the path crossed the stream. While the weather during the day was mainly dry, it did rain heavily for the last two nights. There was a group of people ahead of me and I saw that they struggled to cross. I eventually found the way without dipping in my boots. My worry wasn’t getting wet, but drying them after.

Then, there was another stream much deeper and much faster and all places where people seem to cross it at least a few of the stones making the path were flooded and it was hard to say how deep under the water the stones were. In the mountains, all distances are deceiving. Anyway, I looked around and couldn’t find a crossing. I started walking up the stream thinking that higher up the stream should be narrower… and the current stronger🙄. I got to the point of invoking help of St. Christopher who is a patron saint of travellers. Funnily enough, the legend says (doesn’t matter that it’s a legend – useful for story telling 🤣) that he was a very big man who devoted himself to carry weak and poor across a river. No, I’m not that disillusioned and I didn’t expect a tall, blue-eyed and handsome to appear and carry me across 🤣 Anyway, an inspiration from St Christopher or anyone else (St. Jude?) would have been appreciated. As I say, I tried walking up the stream – no chance to cross the fast current there. However, I got as far as the third lake and I saw a dam which meant, I could pass there.

My joy was short-lived. After seeing this…

I saw this…

Another half of this dam was overflowing. Dam it! No, it’s not a typo! Though, I only came up with this word play as I was writing. I used a bit more colourful language when I saw it.

I turned to walk back down and just laughed. I checked again all possible crossings, but there was no place where I could cross the stream dry-footed. Then it came to me…

After crossing the stream, I checked de Cabana el Pastor on other side and walked back to de Bachimaña soaking up the views. I even said hello to a marmot or two. I came back the refuge so joyful, even though I pulled a muscle or a ligament under my right knee. Hopefully, it’s not thing massive and Voltarol can deal with it.

On the mountain the Lord will provide

I booked another night at Casa de Piedra and decided to warm up without the big backpack.

The morning was pretty wet and all day was going to be like that, but there were plenty of people geared up for some kind of sports event. I was studying the map as I intended to go out anyway, but the curiosity took the better of me and I asked a couple next to me what’s going on. She told me that they had a mountain marathon! Three different options, in fact: half-marathon, marathon and a relay marathon 🤔 and people call me mad! I might start treating that as an insult 😂

Just after 10 o’clock it stopped raining, so I packed my map and waterproofs and ventured out. It started to clear up a bit. At some point, I heard the helicopter. I looked around. It was definitely a rescue helicopter hovering over the mountains on the other side of the valley. It actually landed on the pass, but soon took off and hovered again over those slopes. I don’t know what happened, but I took some pictures of the helicopter.

It’s a good reminder of a rescue for me. It really made me think of this picture…

Soon, the sun was out and the beautiful views emerged – different with each step up.

When I got to the lake, it was glorious. Actually, it was so hot and clear that I knew that I’d sunburn by the time I got back to the refuge. There was an older French couple changing into shorts. I asked the lady if I could ‘borrow’ some sun cream. I’m used to sharing things on the trial if there is a need, but she didn’t look pleased. With hesitation, she offered me some. I was very grateful because my arms would hurt otherwise.

I walked across the dam and found a path down to the smaller lake that looked gorgeously green.

I stopped there for a while, admiring those incredible colours. When I got back to Panticosa, I popped into the hotel to see Miriam and Mario. She wasn’t working, but it turned out that he worked in SPA. Without thinking much, I booked that last session. I am not a beach person, but soaking in a hot outdoor pool (53°C) with a mountain view was definitely the right thing to do.

On the mountain the Lord will provide