I wake up just after 7 a.m. but decide to have a little lie-in. I jump out of the bed when I hear someone in the kitchen. I open the door and look outside. It’s dry – I mean it isn’t raining – but I can’t see anyone. I walk to the other side of the hut but no-one is there and no-one is in the kitchen either. It’s weird but I go back to the bedroom and start to tidy things up and prepare breakfast. When I pack my sleeping bag I realise that a tea light which I had lit last night and which was placed in an old jar on the mattress next to me was taken out and moved to the other side of the bed (we are talking of the width of the double mattress which was next to mine). I’m absolutely certain that I had it in the jar within the arm’s reach as I extinguished it after studying the guidebook and praying last night and definitely did not put it away. While I can imagine that I slept so deeply that I didn’t hear that someone came in and slept on the top bank (not very likely but possible), it isn’t possible to go out the hut and leave the door ‘locked’ from inside!!! Even a very clever person cannot tie a piece of string inside while they are outside! The window is big enough to get out easily but what would be the point of that. It will be the mystery of this trip. I cannot find an explanation or at least not a logical one. It must have been my guardian angel…
I leave the hut in the morning mist and start walking towards Hourquette d’Alans (2430m) and then to Brêche de Tuquerouye, where I’m planning to sleep tonight. In fact, I’m really looking forward to staying in that refuge.
The walk through the valley is easy and very enjoyable, and the views are stunning.
As I get higher I start looking out for the path to Brèche de Tuquerouye. There is nothing clearly visible and I don’t think that there is anything like winter way-markers in these mountains if there are any at all. I get to Hourquette d’Alans eventually and keep looking around. Still no path… I take the backpack off and do a bit of rock climbing looking for one but with no joy. I am not happy about it. I planned to climb Monte Perdido tomorrow (the weather should be the best for that) and I won’t do it if I sleep somewhere else. I should have had a closer look at the map on my phone – it’s much more detailed than the printed one – but I didn’t.
The path that need to take is covered in snow. It’s not very deep and I could possibly just walk up to in a straight line, but even in my madness, I doubt the wisdom of this idea.
I can see Brèche de Roland from here and it is all covered in snow. It’s hard to think of conditions on the Spanish side. For a moment I contemplate about staying in Brèche de Roland refuge but soon I remember that it’s closed all this year. I don’t have much choice and decide to walk down and stay overnight in Refuge des Espuguettes (2027m).
As soon as I start walking the rain comes. It suddenly gets cold and unpleasant. I put my jacket and hat on, and cover the backpack. That black bag is invaluable. I have a couple of big patches of snow to cross and it’s not nice either. Of course, my disappointment makes all these conditions worse than they are… It’s not that bad after all.
Luckily, the rain is only a quick shower and a bit of a blue sky is above me again.
The refuge is clearly visible all the time I walk down. Though, I must admit that I’m not happy with the change of the plan. I’m pretty spontaneous, generally speaking, but I don’t like changing ambitious plans… At the end of the day, Monte Perdido (3455m) is the third highest peak in Spain!!! You can hear my ego speaking here, can’t you? This is the life in the mountains – sometimes they force you to let go of your ambition. Sometimes or maybe often… Didn’t I mention somewhere here that the mountains teach me about God… If my ambition is unhealthy (are there any healthy ambitions or is it just an oxymoron???) He always does something or uses my weakness to change the direction. Of course, if I listen to Him at least a little bit. Anyhow, my fear (or His voice in my fear) was stronger than my ambition on this occasion, so I’m going to spend this evening planning an alternative route.
While I’m walking down I prepare myself for high prices in the refuge. They are very expensive, especially on the French side. It turns out that no-one is there. The main entrance is open and one of the dormitories, too – a warm bed for tonight. Looks like I can stay there for free 😀.
All the electricity is turned off, so I can’t use the tap outside. Well, it’s not a big thing – just another trip to the stream – only 2 minutes walk. I cook dinner and study the guidebook and the map. I’ve still been thinking of going to the Spanish side from Gavarnie via La Brèche de Roland but I eventually let it go (it really is not easy! I wrote a whole post about a few months ago). Tomorrow is going to be the best weather, so I decide to leave the big backpack in the refuge and climb up Piméné. I read in many different sources that if you have clear weather, the views from the top are spectacular. Then I can come back to des Espuguettes, take the backpack, walk down to Gavarnie, and from there to one of the cabanas on the way to Refuge de Bayssellance (2651m) or maybe even to de Bayssellance itself. It would give me a chance to climb Vignemale (yes, I know a three-thousender…) and eventually walk down to Cauterets which would solve the problem with transport to Lourdes. I’m pretty pleased with my ideas and I go for an evening walk. …Right – ‘my ideas…’ as soon as I hear my own thoughts, I’m almost certain that there will be some change of the plan again…
It gets very dark for a moment and I can feel a few drops of rain on my face but it’s nice warm rain. There is a rainbow, too.
The sunset is amazing. Look at these colours! Judging by that orange it will be hot tomorrow.
Mountains of Life 